India - Augmbe - Monsoon dances 31.10.2013

The monsoon dances in Agumbe

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Over the years, my relationship with the monsoons had soured as we drifted apart owing to the hurried city life. But I was determined to have a heart-to-heart with the monsoons, so I headed to the place where it rules unhindered in all its glory. 

The King Cobra’s rainforest – Agumbe. Pic: Karunakar Rayker

One uneventful July evening, you are stuck in the blaring traffic hoping for the light to turn green, when the dark clouds announce their intentions with a deafening roar and tiny droplets of rain come falling from the sky. This harmless drizzle ripens into a downpour in minutes; harried motorists scurry for cover and the hopelessly immobile traffic grinds to a halt. Cursing the rain gods for inflicting this misery, you navigate the inundated potholed roads and dream of the hot cup of tea that awaits at the end of this ordeal.

But were the monsoons always so inconvenient, so without charm? Where are the monsoons which swept the dreariness of the sultry summer and when colourful umbrellas and rain coats dotted the roads? Where is the wind which lent wings to kites which soared along with the clouds and danced in the sky? Where is the excitement of getting drenched and enjoying a game of football with friends? Somehow, over the years, my relationship with the monsoons had soured as we drifted apart owing to the hurried city life. But this season, I was determined to have a heart-to-heart with the monsoons, so I headed to the place where it rules unhindered in all its glory and pomp-Agumbe.

Agumbe is aptly bestowed with the moniker “Cherrapunji of the South”; for three months the rains rein supreme permeating the life of its inhabitants and influencing the very character of Agumbe. Tucked in the Ghat section between coastal Karnataka and inland districts of Chikmagalur and Shimoga, Agumbe is accessible by serpentine roads sandwiched between gentle creeks and menacing bluffs. Along the roads, neatly laid out paddy fields carpet the landscape; farmers toil in the pouring rain egging on their uninterested bullocks.

A typical house in Agumbe

Green is the mood of nature, though I doubt that envy is the emotion she intends to convey. Agumbe consists of neat compact houses with sloping roofs, humble courtyards and crude picket fences with tarpaulin sheets slung across the entrance – an insurance against the incessant rain I presume. Moss and lichen cling to the roof and the outer walls spilling a greenish hue which mixes with the thick fog, lending the impression of an aura surrounding the village. Rain is a constant companion in Agumbe – sliding down the roof, bouncing off the stone steps, hugging the trees, rushing through the drains, kissing the skin – it stalks you like an obsessed lover. Here it seems one should keep their friends close but the umbrellas closer.

Venugopal Temple of the Hoysala Era

Time slows down to an excruciating crawl, burdened by the weight of the unmerciful rain. One can take a stroll in the narrow streets and experience the rain wash away all the pretense of civilization. The Venugopal Temple, near the village centre, is an impressive structure of the Hoysala era though several additional features in Tulunadu style set it apart from the traditional Hoysala temples. Facing the temple is a shrine to the King Cobra, the fearsome reptile which calls Agumbe home. Then there are waterfalls set against the backdrop of dense forests, though in the rainy season they are squirming with the dreaded leeches. One can take a walk to the ARRS- Agumbe Rainforest Research Station- and get an idea of the conservation efforts being undertaken or watch the valleys shrouded in milky fog from the sunset point. There is much to do in Agumbe and yet you can choose to sit idly in an archaic house and sip on a hot cup of tea while relishing a book.

An inner view of Dodda Mane

Kasturi Ajji’s Dodda Mane is located close to the intersection where the road coming from Sringeri meets the highway connecting Shimoga to Udupi. A rather imposing structure, it is an admirable representative of the architectural traditions of Agumbe. The entrance to the house opens into a narrow elevated platform which runs around the perimeter of the house, bordering an open verandah; stone staircases branch from this platform climbing to the cozy rooms on the first floor. Intricately carved wooden pillars and doorways grace the house, a well sits in the backyard with a unique water-heating apparatus completely made of stone, and equally impressive is the attention given to harnessing the natural ligh,t as even during these dark rainy days the house is alight without electricity. It is highly recommended to plan an overnight stay here and soak in the laid-back experience intrinsic to Agumbe.

You will be treated to the lip-smacking local cuisine with a homely hospitality complete with the delightful table conversations that spawn from such a milieu. Interestingly, the famous television serial Malgudi Days, based on the works of R.K.Narayan, was shot in this house and it was heartening to be regaled with anecdotes from the days gone by – to be so close to Swaminathan, the adorable character of Malgudi. And in the night you can listen to the pitter patter of rain on the roof and slip into your own dream world far from the maddening rush of the city.

An abandoned building covered with moss

My tryst with the monsoons rekindled a long lost friendship buried in the debris of time. The rain was not a nuisance anymore. Rather, it was the cradle of freedom and joy I longed for. Here in Agumbe, I could be the child who loved to dress up in a grey raincoat and gum boots and take a walk in the rain with a bright umbrella tucked under my arm. I could splash in the puddles, make paper boats which sailed effortlessly and sleep to the sound of the rain battering the roof. I could watch the fog turn day into night, giggle sheepishly at the smoke coming from my mouth, and watch the mist settle on my eyebrows. But most importantly I could sit alongside a friend and hope that the grey clouds would never fly away!